On the 25th of April every year a special event takes place for Australians and New Zealanders – ANZAC Day. On this day we wake up early to head off to an RSL or Cenotaph for a dawn service, then head into an RSL to maybe partake in an egg and bacon roll and a cuppa, followed by drinking and games of Two-up. But most of all we celebrate the ANZAC spirit and remember what the ANZACs did for us so we may live free.

What Does ANZAC Mean?

If you are not from Australia or New Zealand, you might be wondering what I am talking about. Here is an overview. ANZAC means a number of things. ANZAC is an acronym for Australia and New Zealand Army Corp. An ANZAC is an individual, a soldier. ANZACs have the ANZAC spirt of mateship. ANZACs were borne during a bloody campaign in World War 1 (WWI). The campaign occurred at Gaba Tepe on the Gelibolu (Gallipoli) Peninsula. Gaba Tepe has been renamed as  ANZAC Cove, located in Gallipoli National Park in Turkey.

A Quick ANZAC Day History Lesson

The Dardenelles is a waterway in Turkey which was used by Russia. During World War I the Allied Forces decided if they held this shipping lane it would cripple Germany’s allies of Turkey and Russia. The Allied Forces decided to send Australian and New Zealand corps to capture the area. On 25th April 1915 the Australian’s and New Zealanders were deployed in small boats to row ashore but tides moved them from their original landing spot. Instead they landed at Gebe Tupe onto a rocky beach with steep cliffs to climb. The Turks were waiting and there was a lot of carnage as the Turks held the high ground so the allied forces had to dig in trenches. And the name diggers for soldiers was borne, as were the ANZACs and the ANZAC spirit of mateship.

During World War I, it was scene to some intense battles – including the Gallipoli Campaign which saw devastating losses for both Allied and Turish troops. There are ow many cemeteries in the area and it is a site of pilgrimage for Turks, Australians and New Zealanders. And so, on the 25th April every year, Australians and New Zealanders celebrate Anzac Day.

Celebrating ANZAC Day during COVID-19

ANZAC Day celebrations usually begin before the sun comes up as people get up early to greet the dawn with a dawn service. This time is celebrated as this is when the Australian and New Zealand forces arrived on the shores in Turkey. There are further celebrations during the day with services and marches to cenotaphs. Then people head to the RSL’s (Returned Services League) Clubs or pubs where they play a game called 2 Up – the only day it is legal to play this game – and enjoy the company of their mates.

Two-up on ANZAC Day

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Two coins on a paddle means Two-up time

Two-up is where two coins are placed on a paddle and thrown in the air. People bet on which way the coins will land. Both heads up, both tails up, or with one coin a head and one a tail. It is an illegal game as it is an unregulated form of gambling – except on ANZAC Day because soldiers played the game in the trenches to while away their time when not fighting.

Spend ANZAC Day at ANZAC Cove

Celebrating Anzac Day is a big deal when you are Australian or a New Zealander. When travelling in Europe most of us include a visit to ANZAC Cove. If you time your visit right, you can spend ANZAC Day at ANZAC Cove on ANZAC Day. This is what I did. Here is my experience of ANZAC Day at ANZAC Cove.

My ANZAC Celebrations – ANZAC Cove 1990

I always thought the day was special – I didn’t know how special it was until I actually visited ANZAC Cove for myself. That was way back in 1990, the 75^thanniversary of the landing, but I remember it like it was yesterday. 

The Road to ANZAC Cove

Re-created trench in Gallipoli National Park

My visit to ANZAC Cove began the night before ANZAC Day. There was a rumour that the crowds were beginning to swell at ANZAC Cove, so my tour leader suggested we head there early.

At around 6pm on ANZAC eve, we took the car ferry across the Dardenelles (from Canakkale to Kilitbaher) to ensure we got a spot for the next day. It was only a short ferry journey and as we arrived in the small port on the Gallipoli Peninsula we all laughed when we saw the ”Bob Hawke Bar” which I am sure the name of this bar has changed every time a prime minister changes (if it still exists).

After a quick walk along the Main Street of Kilitbaher, we hopped onto our bus for the drive to ANZAC Cove. The bus ride was bumpy and windy and thankfully did not take long. This was because there were many buses and cars and people lining the road. We were advised to hop out of the bus and walk with the rest of the crowds, so we did, in the dark.

We weren’t sure where we were walking but soon found where the dawn service was being held and found ourselves on the beach behind this area. And here, we waited in minimal light – it was about 10pm. Eight hours or so to go before the dawn service was to start.

I spent the night on the beach with my travelling friends on the same tour. We chatted and laughed, some drank and others slept. It was a starry night with a large moon but it was dark – the only light was coming from the broadcast tower and it was quite cold.  There was a slight breeze and gentle waves were rolling on to the pebbly shore. Peering through the darkness I pictured our boys (the young soldiers) off-shore, in 1915, drifting in their boats, waiting quietly to land. Just visible was the HMAS Tobruk, an Australian warship, which was anchored offshore and had a kangaroo shining brightly on her side. There were lights from other sea faring vessels. Even at 1.00am the atmosphere was electric as we waited in anticipation of the events to come.

ANZAC Day Dawn Service

After the Dawn Service everyone dispersed

Around 4am the 47 soldiers from the 1915 campaign began to arrive. The soldiers from the ANZAC campaign that were still alive were invited, but only these 47 came back. Each of them wearing their commemorative green blazers with their medals and they were led by a soldier from today’s armed services. Some were frail and in wheelchairs, a couple carried oxygen bottles but nothing seemed like it would stop them coming to salute their fallen mates. Each digger was greeted with cheers, applause and warm wishes of “Good on ya mate” and tears from the crowd

Then the dignitaries began to arrive. The Australian Prime Minister, Bob Hawke arrived first in a blaze of lights and camera flashes. He was followed by the New Zealand Governor General, Sir Paul Reeves and the Turkish President.

The formalities of the dawn service began in darkness. There were speeches by the dignitaries and the huge crowd joined in singing the hymns and national anthems of Australia and New Zealand – there could have been the Turkish anthem also but I cannot remember. It finished with dawn breaking to the Last Post and the reciting of the ‘Ode’.

“They shall not grow old…we will remember them, Lest we forget”.

As the ceremony concluded, the Sphinx that protrudes from the mountain face, which the Turks used as a lookout, glared down upon us. The terrain was now visible – the vastness of the scrub covered cliff faces – those cliff faces that were the bane of the land. Turkish soldiers, rifles in hand, were guarding these hills. This time though, they just wanted to have their photo taken with us.

The Sphinx looking over us as dawn broke

Trying to absorb everything in particular the steep terrain of the area, I could imagine Simpson walking down the hill with his donkey. Were those gunshots I could hear? Were the distant, still apparent trenches housing men eating their bully beef or lighting cigarettes — no, they were full of travelling Aussies, Kiwis, Brits and Turkish who had come to pay their respects.

It’s surreal, the peacefulness that engulfs you, and seeing ANZAC Cove really makes you understand what the Diggers did for us. The best tribute of all, epitomising the feeling of the area, is that of the Turkish leader Ataturk, immortalised on a stone memorial at the north face of the cove.

“Those heroes that shed their blood and lost their lives…
You are now lying on the soil of a friendly country.
Therefore rest in peace.
There is no difference between the Johnnie and the Mehmets to us where they lie side by side.
Here in this country of ours…
You, the mothers, who sent their sons from far away countries
Wipe away your tears,
Your sons are now lying in our bosom and are in peace.
After having lost their lives on this land they have become our sons as well.”

Ataturk 1934

Lone Pine Cemetery

The crowds dispersed after the dawn ceremony and went to other areas of the Gallipoli National Park, as there are a number of historical sites where battles were fought. My tour group firstly went to the International Ceremony being held up at Cape Helles overlooking the entrance to the Dardenelles. There was a lot of music performed by British and Turkish troops plus beautiful words for the fallen. Then it was to the Lone Pine Cemetery which is the furthest point the Aussies reached during the campaign. The area witnessed some of the bloodiest fighting and seven Victoria Crosses were won here. Now, the rows of white headstones are guarded by pine trees. And on the 75^thanniversary there was a special memorial service which I attended. Once again, we listened to what the soldiers had done for us and remembered this special day. 

Walking around Lone Pine

After the Lone Pine ceremony, I walked around the grave headstones, like many others did. It is such a peaceful place now. In the distance you could see over ANZAC Cove and other beaches like Suvla Beach – another place of significant warfare. As my day in Gallipoli came to an end our bus headed back to Kilitbaher so we could catch the ferry to Canakkale. And on to other areas in Turkey to enjoy.

How I spend ANZAC Day since I visited ANZAC Cove

Seeing and experiencing ANZAC Day at ANZAC Cove gave me a new perspective on ANZAC Day, and every year I celebrate it. I might attend a dawn service or a mid-morning service, or watch services on television. In my hand I will be holding my pebble I picked up while waiting on the beach for the dawn service. It is one of my prize possessions from my travels. After any service, I sometimes visit an RSL for a meal and a drink – and sometimes partake in Two-up. During the Covid-19 lockdown, I joined the many people in the ‘Light Up the Street’ – instead of attending a dawn service, people lit a candle or held a light just before dawn. But whatever I do on ANZAC Day, one thing never changes, I always remember. 

Finally, if you are travelling in Europe I would highly recommend you include a visit to ANZAC Cove in your itinerary. It doesn’t have to be on the 25^thof April because the area, now a national park, The Gelibolu National Park, will be open. I can tell you, for me, a visit to ANZAC Cove has been a highlight of my travels. 

Here is my 1 month European Itinerary if you are looking to make the most of your time in Europe.

Sharyn McCullum travelled to Gallipoli on a tour of Turkey with the London Walkabout Club (I don’t believe it exists now) with the major reason for travelling was to go to the 75^thAnniversary of the landing of the ANZACs.

Organise your trip to ANZAC Cove and Gallipoli